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Transport The only practical way to tour the battlefields is by car. Public transport in the area is limited and, where it does exist, is tailored to transporting locals between towns and not ferrying visitors to battlefield sites. Hire cars can be quite expensive in France and Belgium, so it may be more cost effective to hire a car in the UK and catch a cross-channel ferry to France. Prices do vary however, so be sure to look at all hire car options. Major firms, such as Hertz, tend to be as price competitive as small operators. If hiring a car in France or Belgium it is generally most convenient to collect it from Calais, Paris, Lille or Brussels – the battlefields are only a couple of hours’ drive from these major centres. Driving on the right-hand side of the road takes some getting used to, but is not difficult after an hour or so behind the wheel. Roads in the battlefield areas receive little traffic and are easy to drive on. There are a number of motorways that cross the battlefields, making navigation between towns an easy task, but I prefer to take more scenic minor routes. Most motorways in France require a toll to be paid and offer unappealing scenery compared to the numerous country roads that cross the region. Navigation on these minor roads can be more difficult, however, so make sure you take a good map. Bicycles can be hired in
Ypres and, in this compact region, can be a lovely way of visiting the
battlefields. This is not really an option for touring in France, as distances
are much greater, or for those short on time.
Organised tours Organised tours can be a handy way of seeing the battlefields if you are short on time or don’t want to drive your own car. The Australian War Memorial runs a very popular tour once a year, taking in Gallipoli and/or the Western Front. These are large tours, with up to 100 passengers on each departure. Designed for Australian travellers, they naturally provide a very good perspective on Australian involvement in the war, and are conducted by historians from the Memorial. For more information visit the Australian War Memorial Web Site at www.awm.gov.au. There are many tour companies that offer a more intimate visit to the battlefields, for varying prices. I do not have experience with any of these companies, but most of them have websites with information about their services. Stress to the tour company that you are primarily interested in Australian sites, and list specific sites you wish to see. One private tour guide that
I can thoroughly recommend is Tom Morgan, an Englishman with great knowledge
about the war. Tom also knows a lot about Australian sites, and can be
hired to guide small parties on customised tours around the battlefields.
Visit his website at www.fylde.demon.co.uk/welcome.htm
for more information or email Tom at tom@fylde.demon.co.uk.
Where to stay There is a good range of accommodation in the battlefield areas, ranging from Bed and Breakfasts to large-chain hotels. Personally, I enjoy staying in the smaller establishments which offer local hospitality and a touch of character. My personal recommendations
are:
YPRES
Albion Hotel (♦♦♦) This new hotel in converted law offices fills an accommodation gap that has existed in Ypres for years. It offers better rooms, facilities and services than many of the budget hotels in town, at a reasonable price. Great location less than two minutes' walk from the Menin Gate and Cloth Hall. Excellent bar and lounge area. Highly recommended. Albion Hotel
Sint-Jacobsstraat 28
Belgium
Old Tom (♦♦) Old Tom has been an Ypres institution since the 1920s but, sadly, it's starting to live up to its name - it feels very old and tired and is badly in need of a makeover. If basic accommodation gets you excited, Old Tom will probably send you into rapture. For budget travellers only. Its saving grace is its excellent restaurant.
Hotel Old Tom
SOMME
Le Macassar (Corbie) This art-deco B&B is a gem. You expect to stumble across this type of elegant accommodation in Paris or Nice, but finding it in the heart of the battlefields comes as a real (and welcome) surprise. Individually styled rooms, funky furnishings and warm service from hosts Ian and Miguel make this one of the top accommodation choices for Australian visitors to the Somme. Do yourself a favour and spend at least one night here. Corbie is one of the most beautiful towns in the Somme and has a strong connection with Australians - many Diggers remembered it as their favourite French town. It's about a 10-minute drive from the Australian National Memorial at Villers-Bretonneux and is close to Albert and the 1916 battlefields, making it one of the most convenient bases for Australian visitors in the area. Le Macassar 8 Place de la Republique Corbie 80800 France Phone: +33 (0)3 22 48 40 04 email: info@lemacassar.com web: www.lemacassar.com
Chateau de Remaisnil (Remaisnil)
To add an extra dimension to your battlefield visit, spend at least one night in this magnificent 18th-century chateau, located near Doullens in the west of the Somme. The Chateau was occupied in both world wars - by the British in the First and the Germans in the Second - and was bought and renovated by Laura Ashley in the 1960s. Today it is the home of Charles and Terri Carroll, who have maintained the elegance of the chateau in a welcoming, hospitable environment. If spending a few nights in French luxury sounds appealing, you'll find what you are looking for at the Chateau de Remaisnil. Rooms are deliciously indulgent and food and wine is superb. Best of all, a stay here is great value - the room rates are surprisingly reasonable. A wonderful experience for Australian visitors and highly recommended.
Remaisnil is a hamlet near the town of Doullens, remembered in Great War history as the site of the important conference in 1918 that determined Allied strategy for the remainder of the war. The room in the town hall at Doullens where the conference was held has been preserved in its wartime state and can be visited. Doullens is not far from Amiens, the largest town in the region and home to a magnificent cathedral. Also nearby is the chateau at Bertangles, the headquarters for the Australian Corps during the successful 1918 battles. Doullens is about 45 minutes' drive west of the Somme battlefields.
Chateau de Remaisnil 80600 Remisnil France Phone: +33 (0)3 22 77 07 47
Fax: +33 (0)3 22 77 41 23 web: www.remaisnil.com
Les Bieffes (Mailly-Maillet) During the war this beautiful house was used as a hospital by the Canadians. Today it is operated as a Bed and Breakfast by its owner, Madame Pecourt. The house is located in Mailly-Maillet, a small town that was in the British rear area for most of the war. Thousands of soldiers were billeted in the town in the war years, and it provides an ideal base for touring the Somme battlefields. Madame Pecourt speaks only a little English, but this adds to the charm of the experience! Les Bieffes
Hotel de la Basilique (Albert) (♦♦) Basic but comfortable hotel located in the heart of Albert, the central town for touring the Somme. Good restaurant and conveniently located. Albert is a fairly charmless town, but is close to Pozieres and the 1916 battlefields.
Hotel de la Basilique
AISNE
Hostellerie Des Remparts (Peronne) (♦♦) Centrally located hotel in Peronne, a town which makes a good base for touring the eastern Somme and the Aisne. Friendly and reasonably priced, with a good restaurant. Hostellerie Des Remparts
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